Two-completed-sections-of-wThis tutorial walks you, step by step, through the construction of our 7′ Victorian Recessed Brick Wall Kit. In this exercise, we’re going to build the OO/1:76 scale kit, but the construction method is exactly the same for the N gauge version. The instructions given here apply to both the pre-printed versions of the kits available in our eBay store, and to the downloadable version of the kits available through this website.

1. What You Will Need – (All versions)

The minimum tools and material requirements for assembling this kit are as follows

  • Cutting matt or a sheet of plywood, card or other sturdy surface to cut on
  • Scalpel or sharp craft knife
  • A tube of UHU (Preferred), or pva / wood glue for main assembly

Pritt stick can be used for laminating paper layers on to card if preferred but I tend to use UHU for the entire kit build.

2. Downloadable Kit Only

These items are required for the downloadable version of the kit only

  • 3 sheets of 80gsm copier paper for the base layers
  • 3 sheets of 100gsm photo quality inkjet paper for the coloured texture layers
  • Suitable thickness card or greyboard approx 0.7mm thick
  • The OO Gauge 7′ Victorian Recessed Brick Wall Kit PDF available to download here.

The thickness of card you use isn’t too critical. Something up to 1 to 1.5mm thick would be fine, but I recommend not using corrugated card as it tends to be too soft and is harder to work with. Bran Flakes, Weetabix or Shredded Wheat packets for example are perfect for this kit.

3. Pre-Printed Version Only

For the pre-printed version of the Victorian Brick Wall Kit you will need to have purchased the kit through our eBay shop here.

All the materials you need, including the correct number of sheets of greyboard will have been supplied for the base layers. If you’re using the pre-printed version of the kit, please skip now to section 5.

4. Printing Instructions – Downloadable Kit Only

The kit can be printed using any colour inkjet or laser desktop printer, following these guidelines…

  • Open the PDF kit file from your hard drive by double-clicking on it. This will open the kit in Adobe Reader. If you don’t have Adobe Reader installed, you can download it for free here.
  • Go to the “File” menu and choose “Print”
  • Here you can select the appropriate settings for your printer. Ideally the printer scaling should be set to 100%. If you wish to reduce the scale to a smaller scale such as HO, you can use the scale settings to change the size of the printed kit. For help calculating the correct percentage for your scale, you can use our free Model Scale Converter here.
  • If when you print the file, your printers in-built margins cause any parts to be miss-printed, choose “Fit” in the printer scaling settings. This will adjust the printed area to fit perfectly within your printers capabilities.
  • Print pages 1 to 3 of the PDF file onto standard 80gsm white copier paper. These will be the front page and base layers of the kit. The front page is for reference only.
  • Print pages 4 to 6 onto 1oogsm photo quality inkjet paper using the appropriate

5. Getting Started

Once you have all the printed kit sheets, tools and materials required, it’s time to get stuck in. You should have the items in the photo below, ready to go.

The printed kit, tools and glue ready to go.

The printed kit, tools and glue ready to go.

First roughly cut out the black and white base layers from pages 2 and three. These sheets are marked “Base Layer Templates” and include these parts.

  • Main Wall Top Layer
  • Pillar Base Layers
  • Wall Capping Base Layers
roughly-cut-out-the-base-la

Trim the excess white paper from the base layers to conserve card.

Roughly cutting them out just removes the excess white paper from the parts which isn’t required and conserves card in the next stage.

6. Laminating The Base Layers

Apply a thin layer of UHU glue to the reverse/un-printed sides of the base layers that you just cut out. You don’t need to completely cover them. Just ensure there’s a reasonable covering, particularly along the edges of the printed lines. The printed lines should just be visible from the reverse/un-printed side of the paper templates. If not, apply a generous amount of glue to the entire reverse side of the templates.

Apply a thin layer of Uhu or Pritt Stick to the unprinted side of the base layers

Apply a thin layer of Uhu or Pritt Stick to the unprinted side of the base layers

Once glue has been applied, stick the paper base layers onto your chosen card (or couple of sheets of the supplied greyboard for the pre-printed version). Rub the paper templates down onto the card firmly, then set aside to dry thoroughly.

Stick base layers on to card

Stick base layers on to card

7. Main Wall Sub-Layers

Roughly cut out the Main Wall Sub-Layers from page 4. These are the long black & white rectangles with 7 smaller brick rectangles on them.

Roughly cut out main wall sub-layers & apply glue to the unprinted side.

Roughly cut out main wall sub-layers & apply glue to the un-printed side.

Apply a thin layer of glue to the un-printed side of the Main Wall Sub-Layers and stick onto a sheet of card, just as we did with the Base Layers in step 6.

Glue Main Wall Sub-Layers onto card.

Glue Main Wall Sub-Layers onto card.

Then set aside to dry.

8. Main Wall Top Layers

Now that the glue has dried, trim away the excess card from the outer edges of the Main Wall Top Layers as shown.

Trim away excess card from Main Wall Top Layers

Trim away excess card from Main Wall Top Layers

Next, cut out the smaller rectangles from the Main Wall Top Layers & discard.

Cut out the small rectangles.

Cut out the small rectangles.

Now cut along the remaining black lines to separate the Main Wall Top Layers into their individual strips and set aside. Repeat for all Main Wall Top Layer strips.

Cut Main Wall Top Layers into strips.

Cut Main Wall Top Layers into strips.

9. Main Wall Sub Layers

Now that the glue has dried on the Main Wall Sub-Layers, cut these out as complete strips as shown in the picture below.

Cut Main Wall Sub-Layers into strips.

Cut Main Wall Sub-Layers into strips.

Repeat for the remaining Main Wall Sub-Layers and set aside.

10. Completing The Main Wall Top Layers

Cut out Main Wall Texture Wraps from Sheet 6 as shown below.

Cut out main wall texture wraps.

Cut out main wall texture wraps.

Now cut along each of the black crossed lines in the centres of the rectangles as marked.

Cut along black lines.

Cut along black lines.

Apply glue to the Main Wall Top Layer card strips.

Apply glue to the upper face of the Main Wall Top Layer card strips.

Apply glue to the upper face of the Main Wall Top Layer card strips.

Now take the Main Wall Top Layers & Main Wall Top Layer Wraps and glue the wraps onto the card base layers centrally, aligning all outer edges.

Glue Main Wall Texture Wrap into place on Main Wall Top Layer

Glue Main Wall Texture Wrap into place on Main Wall Top Layer

Turn the Main Wall over and fold the small tabs in centre of each small rectangle back through the rectangular holes in the base layers.

Fold each tab through the Main Wall

Fold each tab through the Main Wall

Apply a small blob of glue to each tab and glue down. Repeat for all tabs on all top layer strips.

Glue each tab down onto the rear face of the Main Wall Top Layer

Glue each tab down onto the rear face of the Main Wall Top Layer

When complete, you can see that we now have nice neat edges to the recessed panels with no visible cut card edges.

As you can see, we now have nice neat edges to the recessed panels.

As you can see, we now have nice neat edges to the recessed panels.

11. Assembling The Main Walls

Apply a thin layer of glue to the reverse side of the Main Wall Top Layers.

Apply glue to the rear face of the main wall top layer

Apply glue to the rear face of the main wall top layer

Turn the Main Wall Top Layer over and glue into position on the Main Wall Sub Layer as shown, aligning all outer edges so they are nice and flush.  Ensure the Sub Layer and Top Layers are the correct way up. On the Top Layer, the green algae strip should be at the bottom of the wall. Now the recessed panels will take on their final appearance.

Glue Main Wall Top Layer into position onto Main Wall Sub-Layer

Glue Main Wall Top Layer into position onto Main Wall Sub-Layer

Repeat for remaining strips.

If you wish to make single sided wall, please skip now to step 13.

12. Double Sided Wall Only

Take two strips of Main Wall as shown in the photo below and apply glue to the reverse side of one strip.

Glue two main wall strips back to back to create a double sided wall.

Glue two main wall strips back to back to create a double sided wall.

Glue the two strips back to back, ensuring they are both the same way up, to form a double sided wall. In the photo below you can see that the double sided wall is now made up of 4 layers of card.

Here you can see the layers that now make up the wall sections

Here you can see the layers that now make up the wall sections

13. Wall Capping

Cut out the Wall Capping Base Layer Strips.

Glue two capping base layers together to create a thicker capping strip if necessary

Glue two capping base layers together to create a thicker capping strip if necessary

The thickness of the capping is up to you. For this tutorial. If you’re using thicker card, you can use a single strip of wall capping. For this tutorial though I’m going to laminate two together to make a slightly thicker capping. This is done by simply gluing one strip on top of another.

Cut out the Wall Capping Wraps from sheet 4.

Cut out the capping wraps as required.

Cut out the capping wraps as required.

Apply glue to the upper face of the Wall Capping Base Layer strip. Flip over the Wall Capping Wrap and glue the base layer strip centrally onto the un-printed side of the capping wrap. Allow to dry for a minute or two.

Glue capping base layer along the centre of the unprinted side of the capping wrap.

Glue capping base layer along the centre of the unprinted side of the capping wrap.

Once the glue has begun to dry, gently begin to fold the wrap around the wall capping strip with your finger and thumb.

Gently fold the capping wrap around the base layer

Gently fold the capping wrap around the base layer

Apply a thin layer of glue to the underside of the wall capping strip and glue the remaining Wall Capping Wrap down. Set aside to dry.

Glue the remaining capping wrap down onto the base layer

Glue the remaining capping wrap down onto the base layer

14. Pillar Assembly

The Pillars supplied with the kit are used to disguise the joints between individual lengths of wall. They can be shaped to create right-angled pillars to cover up corner joints too by scoring & folding the base layer before covering with the pillar wrap.

Straight Pillar Assembly

Cut out the number of Pillar Base Layers required. You’ll need two for each joint for double sided wall and one for each joint for single sided wall.

Cut out pillar base layers

Cut out pillar base layers

Cut out one pillar wrap for each of your pillar base layers.

Cut out one pillar wrap for each pillar as required.

Cut out one pillar wrap for each pillar as required.

Apply glue to one face of the Pillar Base Layers and glue centrally to the unprinted side of each Pillar Wrap.

glue-pillar-wrap-around-the

Glue pillar wrap around each pillar base layer

Gently fold the Pillar Wrap around the base layer and glue down to cover the exposed card edges.

15. Final Assembly

How you do this part will depend on your application. You can either glue the main walls into place on your layout, then fit the pillars, followed by the capping. Or you can assemble the entire wall complete with capping and pillars before gluing into place on your layout, which is what I’ll look at here.

First, apply a small amount of glue to one half of the reverse of a pillar strip and glue into position on one end of a main wall strip so that approximately half of the pillar is overhanging the end of the main wall.

Glue pillar into position on one end of your wall strip as required

Glue pillar into position on one end of your wall strip as required

Now flip the wall over and do the same on the other side to effectively form a socket into which the next wall strip will fit.

Flip wall over and glue a second pillar into position as shown

Flip wall over and glue a second pillar into position as shown

Next run a small bead of glue along the top edge of the main wall.

Apply a bead of glue to the top of the wall

Apply a bead of glue to the top of the wall

Finally glue the Wall Capping strips into place. Repeat for the remaining wall strips.

Glue capping strip into place on the top of the wall

Glue capping strip into place on the top of the wall

That completes the construction and the walls are now ready to install on your layout.

Two completed sections of wall ready to be added to your layout.

Two completed sections of wall ready to be added to your layout.

If you have any questions regarding the kit and it’s construction, please feel free to submit them via the comments form below.

 

9 Responses to How To Build Our 7′ Victorian Recessed Brick Wall Kit

  1. robin says:

    Every thing you produce is very good , you have brought the price of model railway down , things for the future how about circus tent etc ie BILLY SMARTS or COTRELLS as CORGI has a lot of lorries .. all the best Robin

    • JustinN says:

      Hi Robin, We’ll see what we can do. I had thought about doing some circus models at some point. I’ll add it to our list and see what the demand is like.

      Thanks

      Justin

  2. kim says:

    Very nice Justin. That’s a great build.Im going to have to give it a try one day. Justin always does good work.So does his wife

  3. TerenceM says:

    Would love to see more 1930’s Factories…

  4. phill thomas says:

    Great model Justin, but to make things a bit easier UHU do a gluestick which dispenses the sticky stuff throuh a porous pad. You can completely cover a A4 sheet with an even layer of glue in twenty seconds. I got my sticks from the local Home Bargains at 89p a go. I bought ten to be on the safe side.
    Keep on designing all the good kit mate.

  5. Ray Oakley says:

    Hi Justin, thanks for sorting my credit note problem. Your ideas and products are always of interest and provide food for thought. Wishing continuing success to you and the team

  6. Michael condliffe says:

    I bought the wall kit and was very disappointed at how many parts there were just to build a wall I just expected to do a bit of gluing and that would be it

    • JustinN says:

      Thanks for your feedback Michael. This is one of our most popular kits and to date you’re the first to grumble. You’d be very hard pushed to find a lot from another manufacturer that gives you the standard of finish you get with this once assembled.

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